Up until quite recently, the word ‘second hand’ sent shivers down the spine of many. The idea of buying second hand items, be it clothes or furniture, simply gave off the impression that a vast majority of consumers did not want to associate themselves with. In a capitalist society were we are made to believe that our ways of consumption represent us as beings in a wider society, the idea of reverting to the ‘second best’ option gave off the perception that one cannot afford first hand things, which created an automatic stigma towards the idea of second hand.
Growing up, I distinctly remember being brought up in a culture of ‘hand-me-downs’ were my cousin’s clothes would be passed onto her sisters, and then onto my sister, who would eventually pass them onto me – resulting in flow that would continue in a never-ending cycle of ‘hand-me-downs’. Things would hardly ever get thrown away, if it broke, we fixed it – and if it didn’t fit, we would find somebody who would fit into it. This was normal for us, and for many others – quite frankly it was simply logical and pretty straightforward.
I was brought up to understand that if I no longer had use for certain possessions, there was somebody, somewhere who did. And so, in my more childish views, my connotation with second hand was always linked with some kind of ‘charitable act’. As I got older, my obsession with fashion flourished and my teenager views gave me the idea that buying ‘first hand’ items was the only way to portray my ability to be ‘on trend’ or to simply have the latest ‘must have’ items that Vogue magazine was promoting that week. An attitude I am sure I shared with many.
In more recent years, however, this perception has been slowly shifting. The fashion industry has begun to witness the rise of the second hand segment taking a very strong hold within the industry. Amongst the millennial generation, a generation of consumers who desire individualism and personal relationships with what they consume, the stigma of second hand items has not only disappeared, on the contrary, its has become one of the most sought after global trends. With this changed understanding of value, the idea of finding unique items, that are highly unlikely to be found anywhere else, is what most consumers are after nowadays. Boycotting the idea of mass production, we have become more than willing to take on any old and unwanted items. In fact, recent research shows that in 2017, “44 million women tried second hand shopping […] increasing significantly from the 35 million women who used second hand stores the previous year”
Second hand shopping is now on trend, and everyone wants a knack at it. However with the very nature of the word ‘trend’ being change, I cannot help but wonder how long this trend will really last? Ultimately the ability to shop second hand properly is not as straightforward as the ready-to-wear industry. As much as us millennials are looking for individualism, we also have the same concentration span of a gold fish – and in order to really find those unique pieces, most of the time, one must require a certain kind of patience.
Personally, I was guilty of this and my patience took the better of me.
When I lived in London a few years back, working on Brick Lane was a true pleasure. The reality of strolling down those beautiful streets and passing the quaint little shop-fronts that opened up into big warehouse-like rooms filled with timeless treasures was like something out of a dream. For the first time I was immersed in the desirable world of second hand items that were ultimately available in a fashionable and affordable way. However on most occasions, it turned out that stepping foot inside one of these big warehouse-like rooms was closer to something out of a nightmare. I personally always felt immensely overwhelmed by the piles of clothes that seemed to never come to an end. I would spend a considerable amount of time sifting and rummaging through an unlimited number of stuff to probably leave with nothing in the end, despite the amount of possible treasures, full of rich past lives, that these shops stowed. And so, the novelty of actively shopping for these items, which in my perception, at the time, was all in the name of trends, wore off rather fast.
About a year and a half ago I moved to Berlin and this is when my perception truly flipped.
In Berlin you do not need to be working in an area that is known for its quaintness and ‘on trend’ approach in retail, like Brick Lane in London, to be able to have the opportunity to shop in that manner, or, like in my case, to even attempt it. In Berlin, you do not need to purposely go out to seek second hand; second hand simply seeks you.
Yes, second hand items, from beautiful furniture pieces to clothes all the way down to classic novels and lavishly green plants that are simply looking for a new home, literally find their way to you. No patience needed, just simply the ability to step outside your front door. The chances of walking down the street and finding a box full of books, sometimes ancient, sometimes new, or stumbling across a one off, at times slightly damaged, beautiful piece of furniture available for you to simply and freely take, are rather high.
I distinctly remember being so impressed; firstly, with the way people would freely rid of their belongings, and mostly with the way others would freely obtain those unwanted belongings left on the streets, without any kind of judgment whatsoever. Every few blocks you would find an array of the latest available items that sometimes came with a little note inviting the new possible owners to go ahead and “help themselves”.
As I found myself strolling down the rather “dirty” and “rough” looking streets of Kreuzberg, compared to the “perfectly pretty” streets of Brick Lane, I suddenly realized that this is what second hand heaven actually looks like. Despite the “non-quaintness” about it all, were instead of sifting and rummaging through the piles of stuff in the warehouse-like shops in London, I found myself sifting and rummaging through the neat pile of stuff that was left outside someone else’s home for someone else, like myself, to simply take. I never did it with clothes, I must admit. However, this is when the actual realization behind the beauty of second hand items began to actually happen. The penny started to drop that those second hand items actually have a story and now, as a new person acquires them, they will have a passed life. The idea that I could be connected so openly to a stranger through the passing of items, be it books, kitchen wear or a sofa, was simply fascinating.
The longer time I spent in Berlin, the more my interest towards this unique second hand lifestyle grew. I began to contemplate and further understand more behind the different approach that Berlin has and ultimately, why? In understanding and considering its history and what the City had to endure, I started to truly recognize how it possibly stems from the perception of value towards items and how it is rather unique. When you consider that the Berlin wall went down in 1986, just 32 years ago, during a time when the rest of the world were at post-war capitalist highs, Berliners were left with no choice but to keep their belongings in a continuous flow of ‘hand-me-downs’. Their sad circumstances at the time automatically resulted in people holding a higher value towards the life and after-life of their possessions. I began to recognize how some effects of Berlin’s history are still felt till this day and that ultimately this is an attitude that truly runs through the veins of the City and is deeply embedded in its culture.
In Berlin, second hand is no trend or fad, it is not about choosing to purchase in that way. Second hand is truly a lifestyle, a lifestyle that people do not really think about as such, it is just the way things are. I realised that second hand in Berlin is simply logical, which instantly threw me back to my childhood memories – were I could easily relate to the logical never-ending cycle of ‘hand-me-downs’ - were instead of discarding of possessions, instead, they are given the opportunity to extend their life and story, which in reality adds a certain unique value to them instead.
Berlin is truly unique in that way, and as a consumer you are given a diverse and endless amount of opportunities to either get rid of unwanted items or obtain them instead. Besides the items left on the streets, you will always find a considerable about of small second hand clothing shops in every neighbourhood, more commonly than high street brands. You will find flea markets at every corner of the city, that anyone can participate in any time they please - resulting in friends teaming up every month or so ready to spend a day personally selling their unwanted items for a couple of euros, while at the same time being directly connected with their new owners. On occasion, you would even come across little kids, while at the park with their families, setting up shop with their blankets laid out on the grass and their random little treasures placed on top, eagerly ready to find a new home.
One and half years later of living in this City, I can sincerely say that my perception and, more importantly, my understanding towards second hand items has indeed flipped. Living in this City has really helped me to create a higher value towards my possessions, crating an understanding towards what those items had to endure just to be alive and the further efforts they need to simply keep living in the endless cycle of hand-me-downs. I now see an opportunity that creates immense appreciation and a sense of emotional connection towards such objects.
In the end, I feel like I have gone full circle, where the pretty straightforward second hand attitude that I nurtured in my childhood has once again risen to the surface of my current perceptions on a more profound and deeper level. I have understood another meaning of value, were the world of second hand has truly become something exciting that ultimately comes with a feeling of fulfillment and pride.